Here's the equipment I am using at the moment. Over the years I have tried a lot of gear, and this is what I have finally come to trust. Everyone will have their own opinions about what is faster, quieter, or more accurate, but until I'm proven wrong this is what I am sticking to.
Click on any of the images to get a larger view.

Fins:

I have three pairs of fins - The most used pair pair are Omer Millennium pockets with C4 blades in them. I find that these blades allow me to dive all day without wearing my legs out, but still provide more than enough grunt to do 100ft dives. The other bonus is that they are virtually indestructible.
The second pair is another make of carbon blade - Mtechnic. Similar to the C4 blades, but with a scoop profile moulded into the blade to give a bit more rigidity. Harder on the legs, but good for fast drops to the bottom - used for drift diving.
The last pair is another pair of Omer foot pockets, with Powell blades in them. Nice on the legs, and the most robust fins I have. Only downside is the length, as they do not fit in my dive bag. These are now my backup pair.

C4 Blades

Mtechnic Blades



Powell Blades in Omer Millennium foot pockets.
 

Mask & snorkel:

I use a Cressi Sub Occhio Plus, and a Cressi Sub Super Occhio as a backup mask.. I have gone for this brand as it is a better fit on my face than any of the other makes. Both have all the essentials for a freediving mask - ultra low volume, black silicone surround, and an easy to reach nose piece for equalising. The Occhio Plus has a larger field of view, with a similar volume to the older Super Occhio.
The backup mask has been going strong for the last 10 years, and was only superseded this summer.
My snorkel started life as a Sporasub model, and has since been shortened, and had the swivelling mouthpiece taped in one position. Nothing special, but it has a large diameter tube, and comfortable mouth piece.

Cressi Occhio Plus

Super Occhio

Spearguns:

I have finally got around to building myself a gun. It is very similar to my original gun - Esclapez handle, 120cm wooden barrel with full length rail, open muzzle design. This is shooting a 160cm long 7mm diameter Rob Allen spear. Propulsion comes from a single 20mm band which gives it some real power. I have two configurations for this gun - one involves a breakaway rig for use on larger pelagic species, and the other is the standard euro style, whereby the shooting line is fixed to the gun.

I have also gone ahead and built myself an enclosed track gun for use in the blue water. The bonus of this type of gun is that you can use a faster thinner spear with a lot of rubbers, and not loose the accuracy. The reasoning behind this has to do entirely with shaft whip - a thin spear when released from a gun with either a top rail, or no rail at all will wobble as it leaves the gun. The more power that is applied to the shaft, the worse the wobble, and accuracy is lost as a result. An enclosed track gun has the spear supported inside the stock of the gun which does not allow the spear to whip at all, regardless of the number of rubbers propelling it.
The faster the spear, the flatter it shoots, and in the blue water this equates to hitting a fish before it has time to react.

Speargun rubbers:

I use bulk rubber to make all of my speargun rubbers. This is primarily because it is cheaper, but it also allows for fine tuning the amount of power given to the spear. I have put together a "How to" guide for making up your own speargun rubbers.

Weightbelt:

I have in recent times changed from a nylon webbing type belt, to a rubber one, and will never go back to the nylon belt. The rubber belt allows for the compression of your wetsuit at depth, so you don't end up with your belt moving up your body as you dive. The buckle configuration seemed a bit unsecure, but I have had no problems with it in the six months I have had it. I am carrying 3 x 4lb weights which makes be neutrally buoyant at 20ft. If I am diving much deeper than 80ft, I will remove 2 lb from the belt, just to make the ascent a little easier.

Wetsuit:

Just replaced my 5 year old made to measure wetsuit from Greece with a locally sourced 5mm 2 piece Wettie branded suit. First impressions are good, with nice open cell rubber used, seals on the wrists, ankles, and face, and 2 x knife pockets. Oh, and the price was very sharp.

Floats:

I have three different floats for different situations. Most of the time I will use my Ronstan plastic float with my flag on it. It has been filled with foam to stop if from imploding if I happen to shoot something TOO big, and has 25Meters of 3mm rope on it. It has a stainless fish threader on the gun end, which doubles as the connection between the gun, and the float line. The float line has been shackled to the float, so I can change the line if necessary.
The other float is huge in comparison, and is a custom made carbon fibre over foam design (similar to racing yachts hence the nickname KZ-7 keel). This still needs to be painted. It  is a joy to tow, and has sufficient buoyancy for me to sit most of the way out of the water. This gets used in conjunction with my Riffe 75ft bungy, in anticipation for that world record Yellowtail kingfish.
The third float is a riffe inflatable float, for use when I travel overseas, and do not have the space for the "KZ-7 keel"

Bungy:

This is a stock standard Riffe 75ft bungy. I have only tried it out on Kingfish up to 60lb, but imagine it would be just as good to use on MUCH bigger prey. All I can say is that once I have the fish on, my job is much easier than with the standard 3mm rope I used to use. The only downside I have come across is the added drag of the bungy when diving in fast currents.

Boots & Gloves:

There is not a lot of difference between most brands of boot and gloves. I am using Cressi Sub Amara gloves simply because they were on sale at the time. The Amara (like Suede leather) takes a lot of punishment, and provides good protection, while the rest of the glove is 3mm neoprene, and allows for a good fit & freedom of movement. The boots I am using are 3mm Neoprene socks made by Southern Ocean Wetsuits. These have been blind stitched & glued, so you don't get any seams pressing against your feet.

Cameras:

After 3 different Olympus cameras, three housings and approximately 15,000 photos, I have finally got something bad to say about the quality of the Olympus housings. One of the locking lugs for the front port fell off mid way through my only dive with the Whale sharks in Australia. The camera flooded, rendering it useful as a doorstop and nothing else. I managed to get the photos right up until the housing was 25% full. The photos after the 25% full mark had a artificial horizon visible in the images :-(

On the upside, I managed to pick up a much smaller 8 mega pixel Olympus camera (SP-350) for $349 from the Australian duty free stores. I am thinking I may spend the extra money, and get an Ikelite housing to stop a repeat performance of the 8080 camera.

The old camera is an Olympus C4040 Zoom with a 128Mb memory card and long life NiMH batteries. The housing as an Olympus PT-010 and has enough buttons on it to control every feature the camera has (which is lots). This housing is rated to 30 Meters, but I have heard reports of divers taking theirs to 50 Meters with the only problem being the buttons get hard to push.